5 extreme complication watches that make a bold statement
More than just statements designed to be noticed, these complicated models are also emblems of exceptional engineering.
BACK TO THE FUTURE
At first glance, one would hardly think that there is anything that could be considered traditional about the Urwerk UR-105 “Raging Gold”. But there is – and it’s right there in its outsized bezel: a gold “shield” with an engraved pattern inspired by the classic hobnail motif. Elsewhere, it’s all cutting-edge modernity. The shield covers a black PVD-coated titanium case measuring 39.5mm (width) by 53mm (length) by 16.8mm (height), and the watch features Urwerk’s signature wandering hours display.
RACE TO THE TOP
When wild independent brand MB&F makes a car-inspired watch, it does not just slap a tachymeter scale on it. The design of the Horological Machine No.8 (HM8) Can-Am, shown here in red gold and titanium, is inspired by the Canadian-American Challenge Cup (Can-Am). Dual optical prisms vertically display bi-directional jumping hours and trailing minutes, and a large battle-axe rotor spins atop the watch. The top of the timepiece features gleaming rolling bars milled from blocks of Grade 5 titanium.
START YOUR ENGINES
The Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari Sapphire has a power reserve of 50 days (yes, days) – thanks to a powerful engine that does justice to the Ferrari hybrid supercar after which it is named. Eleven series-coupled and centrally mounted mainspring barrels take pride of place at the centre of this tourbillon watch, offering an exceptional energy store. A fully transparent case crafted from sapphire gives owners (and onlookers) unparalleled views of this movement.
POETRY IN MOTION
A little dynamism goes a long way, which might explain why the constantly rotating tourbillon remains popular. Offering a different way of keeping things moving, the Hautlence HL.4 features a vertical escapement (that’s the structure at the left) that rotates 60 degrees every hour. An hour-display chain is linked to the escapement, and advances at the top of every hour. A retrograde minutes scale adds to the dynamic qualities of this statement time-teller, which is housed in a 42mm-wide titanium case fronted by curved sapphire glass.
THE STRAIGHT AND NARROW
With the H3, HYT breaks away from the curved form of the fluid-filled tubes that comprise its time display. Instead, the capillary here takes a linear form, with the bright green fluid gradually travelling along the tube – indicating the hours against the display below it. The hour display is no less inventive – it comprises a rotating dial with six cube-like structures, each with four faces. Housed in a PVD-coated titanium and platinum case, this manual-winding conversation-starter has a seven-day power reserve.