01: Patek Philippe 5320G-001
Straightforward, dignified and wonderfully vintage, the Patek Philippe 5320G is everything you could ask of a retro-looking watch built with and for modern technology and tastes. Inspired by its watches from the 1940s and 1950s, Patek Philippe has given this 40mm perpetual calendar a cream dial and syringe hands, and features the brand’s Gyromax balance and Spiromax balance spring.
02: Breguet Marine Equation Marchante 5887
With a tourbillon, perpetual calendar and the rare equation of time, this is easily Breguet’s star offering this year. There are apertures for the day and month, a golden sun-tipped minute hand for the solar time and a retrograde anchor-tipped one for the date. The wave pattern engraving was developed specially for this model, and the back features a splendid depiction of the Royal Louis, a first rank vessel in the French Royal Navy.
03: Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec
This tribute to the Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms Mil-Spec 1 combat diver from the 1950s faithfully recreates the original’s humidity indicator, found at 6 o’clock. Should water enter the case, the white semi-circle (made of paper in the vintage models) would turn orange, indicating the need for servicing. You’ll not likely see the change in this remake given its 300m water resistance, but it’s a neat addition.
04: Urwerk UR-210 Amadeus
Taking a surprisingly Baroque turn on its futuristic flagship, the UR-210, Urwerk has collaborated once more with engraver Florian Gullert, whose work you may recognise from the EMC Pistol. Inspired by a massive 18th century wall clock co-founder Felix Baumgartner received from his father, the watch was named “Amadeus”, after Wolfgang Amadeus Mozard, whom the Urwerk duo consider a fellow rebel. The watch took Gullert 260 hours to complete.
05: Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chrono
The Black Bay family welcomes its first chronograph, marrying the brand’s diving heritage with its racing one. The 41mm steel watch, with both polished and satin finishes, features a matte black dial for optimal readability, pushers inspired by early Tudor chronographs and includes a date window at 6 o’clock. Its snowflake hands maintain the Black Bay’s DNA.