More than 90 seasonal-menu changes in, you can say this 23-year-old has been through it all. The French fine-dining establishment has endured every turn in climate – from the various cooking styles of six former chefs, to the most recent shortage of black truffles – standing its ground with an 80-seat red velvet-walled premise, complete with a 3,000-bottle cellar and consistent updates to its hardware.
If the pressure is on the two-Michelin-star Les Amis to stay on top, it’s taking the safe route: consistent, protein-heavy French dishes by executive chef Sebastien Lepinoy, tried-and-tested wine pairing recommendations, and service that’s steady, unhurried, with an eagerness to please.
Spring sprung early for us in its March Le Degustation Printemps menu by way of asparagus – as blanc-manger with caviar, as well as roasted and blanched. We were served early-season langoustines from Loctudy (Brittany), an earthy and nutty etuve of Spring’s first morels (paired with silky foie gras flan), and Kaviari caviar, the latter tinned specially for Les Amis. It’s hard to not find pleasure with ingredients like these, 90 per cent of which are flown in from France, as frequent as, at least, three times a week.
Also out to please is its encyclopaedic selection of wines, a tome consisting mostly of bottles from the bigger French regions, and a handful of Italian, American and South American wines.
#01-16 Shaw Centre, S(228208)