There aren’t many restaurants that can deliver both classic and modern dishes at the same time but 14-year-old Italian restaurant Pontini is one of them. The 88-seater has a new menu that features both styles – and manages to pull it off.

Traditionalists who prefer pasta in bowls can dig into linguine with octopus ragout stewed till tender in a sauce made with sweet Datterino tomatoes from south Italy. Meanwhile, those who admire delicate contemporary plating can savour house-cured salmon with sweet green apple puree, fennel salad, balsamic-vinegar pearls and garnished with edible flowers. Level 2, Grand Copthorne Waterfront Hotel.