During the recent Fall/Winter 2017/18 fashion show season (these industry events take place a season ahead), we were particularly interested in what Alessandro Sartori – who last showed his mettle by successfully introducing ready-to-wear at Berluti – would put forth in his first collection for Ermenegildo Zegna. The recently appointed creative director is no stranger to the Zegna family: From 2003 to 2011, he was the creative chief at the younger Z Zegna line.
In this debut outing, Sartori presented his vision for Ermenegildo Zegna. “Elegant informality” was a defining theme, with silhouettes that were “soft and active”. Think roomy trousers with cuffed hems, topped with a thin turtleneck and a fluid blazer. He harnessed the brand’s expertise in fabric innovation: Ultra-light cashmere was used to make felted suits that were as comfy as loungewear; while treated calf leather gave jackets a weightless and papery feel.
Sartori is clearly looking to create a fresh, unifying coherence for the world’s largest menswear brand. Its latest campaign stars thespian Robert De Niro and young actor McCaul Lombardi. The pairing reflects the challenge Ermenegildo Zegna’s new creative head faces: staying relevant to the traditional leanings of many of the brand’s existing clients, while reaching out to a new generation that never stands still.