It’s not often the humble pig gets first pick over a prime steak. But when it’s cut from a breed that produces beautifully marbled meat, and then given a masterful touch under the deft hands of Whitegrass’ Sam Aisbett, you get a dish of gold standard.
Here, the jowl sits in a brine for eight hours to birth cubes of meat that your knife sinks easily into. Delicate curls of fiddlehead fern and fermented cabbage offsets the potency of this rich, creamy dish. All of it is meant to be savoured, slowly, with the light seaweed and pork broth that packs an umami hit.
It’s the kind of dish that, while nicely plated, doesn’t leave you expecting much. The colours don’t pop, and you wonder how a simple-looking piece of pork belly is going to blow your mind. Until you sink your fork in for that first bite.
30 Victoria St