Lumo, one of the latest restaurants in town, is named for the Esperanto word for “light”. Just like the language, they’re presenting a mix of ideas — a mish-mash of cultures and flavours — all with the goal of bringing people together.
Chef Martin Wong, previously of Myths and Mythz, holds court in the kitchen. The menu is skewed towards comfort food done well, with bits of chef-ey touches like house-fermented condiments and dry-aging thrown in for good measure.
We’re big fans of the chicken wings, which, on paper, sounds like way too much work for a bar snack. Brined, dry aged three days, hot smoked, and glazed, the dish ticks every box of what a chicken wing is supposed to be, and then some more — intensely flavourful with well rendered skin — so it’s well worth the effort. Other highlights include seared Hokkaido scallops dressed with spinach veloute, burnt leeks, and house-pickled lingonberries; as well as hash, amped up with crispy triple-cooked cubes of potato, house-cured duck proscuitto, and homemade sour cream. The restaurant uses a wood fire grill, which lends itself well to dishes like their Westholme wagyu intercostals — smoky, yielding nuggets of beef served with confit shallots and pickled kohlrabi.
Meanwhile, if you’re hankering for a spot of wine with the food, there’s a reasonably large selection of vino, including a section of natural wines curated by neighbours RVLT.
Desserts too, are unfussy, straightforward affairs that aim to satisfy. There is deep fried apple pie, dusted in cinnamon sugar and served with vanilla ice cream; and burnt cheesecake, which comes dotted with pickled redcurrants.
Don’t forget to hit the bar, which is headed by Flagship alum Josiah Chee, who’s running a surprisingly inclusive bar programme themed after breakfast — with some of the healthiest-sounding cocktails we’ve ever come across. Cue a refreshing vodka-based fizz with burnt honey, sea salt, fino sherry, and house-blended plant milk; as well as the Patty Royale — a savoury vesper martini given a touch of insanity with a Impossible meat-flavoured spirit (no typo here), tomato-shimeji vermouth, and shiso bitters all grounded with a London dry.
(Related: Why you should be drinking more tea)
If you’re observing temperance, even the non-alcoholic drinks have been given much though — try the Strawberry Breakfast, which is made from baguette syrup, genmaicha yogurt, and strawberry shrub. Now if only they were open in the morning…
50 South Bridge Road, #01-00. Tel: 8921-3818