MARS SHINSHU DISTILLERY
Mention the origin of Japanese whisky and you’d hear the name Kiichiro Iwai. One of Japan’s whisky pioneers, we have him to thank for Masataka Taketsuru, who started Yamazaki Distillery and Nikka Whisky. It was he who sent Taketsuru on the momentous journey to Scotland, after all.
But that’s not his only claim to fame. Iwai helped establish Hombo Shuzo Co. Ltd’s Mars Shinshu Distillery in 1960, designing copper pot stills based on Taketsuru’s notes from Scotland. The design continues to be used today.
The popularity of its whisky goes beyond its rich history. Its location in the central Japanese Alps, at the base of Mount Komagatake, gives it unadulterated access to melted snow that’s naturally filtered by granite. The frigid temperatures at 798 metres above sea level (as low as -15°C in winter) also greatly influence the maturation process.
Distillery manager Koki Takehira now helms the distillery, following its reopening in 2011. Awards have started piling up. The Mars Maltage 3+25, 28 Years Old was named the world’s best blended malt whisky by 2013’s World Whiskies Award.
Now, the distillery has expanded. November 2016 saw the launch of Mars Tsunuki Distillery for producing richer, heavier malts with hints of salt to create new blends. They also own three aging warehouses in Shinshu, Tsunuki and Yakushima, where blends will spend time in one or more.
IWAI TRADITION
Named after Kiichiro Iwai, Iwai Tradition is a malt-driven blend bringing the pioneer’s vision to the 21st century. It’s aged in a combination of bourbon, sherry and wine casks, bringing layers of caramel, wildflower honey, cloves and cherries to the palate. A hint of peat finely laces the honey finish. This is a bottle ideal for drinking on its own.
SINGLE MALT KOMAGATAKE LIMITED EDITION 2018
Matured in American white oak and bourbon casks for a minimum of three years solely at Mars Shinshu Distillery, it makes for an outstanding entry-level pour. The charming layers of white flowers, pears and citrus are accentuated by a discreet smoke in the background. The annual release is limited to 10,000 bottles with stocks running out. The coming months will see the 2019 edition and, with the 2018 being this good, there’s a lot to look forward to.
Mars Whisky is available at bars including Anti:Dote, Neon Pigeon, The Winery Tapas bar and Wheeler’s Estate.
TOMATIN
Japan’s loose whisky regulations allow for the import of Scotland-produced whisky for use in their blends. Tomatin, one of the largest distilleries in the Highlands, is known to provide much of its supply to do so. It also comes as no surprise that it is the first fully Japanese owned distillery. Takara Shuzo Ltd and Okura & Co. bought over the distillery in 1986. It is now owned solely by the former following a buyout.
The distillery, formerly known as The Tomatin Spey District Distillery Ltd. opened at the peak of the Victorian whisky boom, circa 1897. Despite initial difficulties, leading to its closure in 1906, new management revived the distillery and jump-started its dramatic expansion from just two stills to a total of 23. That means a whopping 12 million litres of whisky per year.
TOMATIN 18 YEAR OLD OLOROSO SHERRY CASK
Fans of fruity, floral pours will enjoy this award-winning expression. Matured in traditional oak and finished in first-fill Oloroso Sherry butts for up to three years, it stands as an excellent introduction to mature whiskies. It invites you in for a sip with its honeyed nose and impresses with layers of dried fruits, spice, vanilla and oak.
Tomatin is available at Quaich Bar and Quaich Bar South Beach.
LIMEBURNERS DISTILLERY
In terms of flavour profile, Australian whisky comes close to Japanese. One name to look out for is Cameron Syme, who set up the Great Southern Distilling Company in 2004. The former lawyer dedicated 16 years to researching, including working for The Godfather of Tasmanian Whisky Bill Lark, and getting certified. It took him another 12 years to perfect the distilling process – to great results.
Albany-based Limeburners whisky quickly rose to the top and was named in Jim Murray’s Whisky Bible as the 2018 Best Whisky in the Southern Hemisphere. Syme himself also won the honor of 2019’s Australian Distiller of the Year from UK Whisky Magazine Icons of Whisky.
All its ingredients are sourced from Australia. Water from Albany, grains from the Great Southern region and peat, hand collected from the Valley of the Giants. The latter is supposedly made of tingle trees, mallee and gum trees, giving it a distinct flavour you won’t find in a Scotch. And it seems Syme is the only one with access to it for now.
SHERRY CASK SINGLE MALT
Australian whisky is described as ‘light yet flavorful’ and the Sherry Cask Single Malt is no different. Matured in second-fill bourbon barrels and finished in Australian sherry casks, you get a warming spice and fruit notes on first taste. A splash of water unveils a crescendo of malted barley, vanilla, raisins and buttery caramel. It continues to impress with its long, velvety finish.
Limeburners Distillery is available online at Spirit & Penance.
(RELATED: Japanese whisky: Is a shortage of aged labels really a cause of concern?)
This article was originally published in The Business Times.
Photos: Japan Whisky Tours, Tomatin Distillery & Great Southern Distilling Company