It’s grand what The Ritz-Carlton has done with the space for Colony – where natural light hits, tables are set up for its (mostly) dress-to-be-seen guests to bask. “We’d prefer if they didn’t [wear slippers],” confesses a member of the service staff when we enquire about the dress code. The shrug at the end signals how times have changed.
Still, there is glamour. The space is set up like it’s perpetually ready to be a Paris Fashion Week runway, with some ladies-who-dine dressing to fit this imaginary theme. Even the entrance mimics a fashion retail shop – but instead of accessories, the pull-out display counters are filled with dainty macarons (the lime espelette pepper is a must) and chocolates, while the shelves are laden with mousses and cakes. The selection is anything but ordinary – you’ll see once you reach the entranceway.
At the beautifully arranged cold-cuts counter, four varieties of fresh oysters (responsibly displayed alongside their packaging dates) are shucked on the spot, adding to the decadence that few buffet places in Singapore continue to offer. Next to the 10 types of cold seafood, Colony has shrewdly positioned
the eggs station, just so it can bling up its eggs Benedict with lobster.
You can request one without the lobster claw, but why would you? Just as you think you’ve seen the best of it, tucked away in what could pass off as a secret room is an entire selection of breads, and Western and Asian dishes. An Indian spread fit for a Mughal king, a slow-baked beef tomahawk to rival your regular Sunday roasts, and a well-curated selection of six innovative dim sum dishes is available at any time. This goes to show Colony is able to do both grandeur and restraint equally well.
To that, and more, we clink our glasses of unlimited Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage Blanc, and Rosé, both 2009 – an exceptional year, fitting for this exclusive place.
The Ritz-Carlton, Millenia Singapore, S(039799)